My usual 4.5ft Redwood pine board. Mellow parabolic concave, 19ins wide. Great for prone/dropknee and a real 'fish' of a wave catcher.
Well Bank Holiday - with the holiday crowds and the annual 'Run to the Sun' revellers I decided that this morning the best bet for a quiet surf was early.....yeah that was the plan, not that it worked. When I arrived at the crack of dawn already the surfer's carpark was full and the high tide line up crowded. Surf was 2-3ft and cleanish - nice left handers if I could just get one. I chose my usual 4.5ft woody for the mission and between aging, overweight longboarders hoggin' the outside and bodyboarders snaking like boy-racers in the morning traffic I managed to score a few good waves.
Throughout the hour or so the turnover in the line-up was amazing folks just paddling out for a wave or two and then deciding to call it a day, within minutes their spaces filled with grinning kids or office jockeys intent on making their long weekend count.
For me the finish point came when the local surf school decided to enter the break with 20 or so students clutching swell foamies.
So much for a quiet glide on the morning glass...but then tomorrow is another day.
Throughout the hour or so the turnover in the line-up was amazing folks just paddling out for a wave or two and then deciding to call it a day, within minutes their spaces filled with grinning kids or office jockeys intent on making their long weekend count.
For me the finish point came when the local surf school decided to enter the break with 20 or so students clutching swell foamies.
So much for a quiet glide on the morning glass...but then tomorrow is another day.
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